Salish Sea Islands - Canada Side 2

travelcycling

Oct 20

Part of 2024-2025 Island Trip
USA ISLANDS 1 - USA ISLANDS 2 - CANADA ISLANDS 1 - CANADA ISLANDS 2 - USA ATTRACTIONS 1 - USA ATTRACTIONS 2 - CANADA ATTRACTIONS 2

We’re starting on the U.S.A. side, which has much nicer paved Islands than Canada’s crappier infrastructure and gravel roads I got a whole new bike for.

Malcolm Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: “The island was the first of the Gulf Islands to be settled by non-First Nations people.”

By far the most visited of all the islands ranking top5 in total size when it comes to road networks but way up there in terms of attractions and amenities. It also offers 2 ferry terminals from which you can do interesting big loops to Crofton ( 60km from Victoria ) or Vancouver. The roads are bumpy and punchy and Mt. Tuam is a solid and steep climb and the highest paved one you can do without driving all the way up island to Mt. Washington. There’s also a gravel road that goes all the way up to the island’s highest peak, Mt.Bruce, at about 705m. I’ve not been there yet! While pretty high of a point it still gets beat out by 30m by Mt.Constitution on Orcas Island.

People are a bit intimidated to bike on here because it’s nothing but sharp up and down pitches and narrow roads in forested residential areas. It’s a slog if you don’t have the gearing.
There’s not a whole lot else to do here but there is a small town in the center with some shops and cafes. This is big for an island to have because you often have to sit and wait for a ferry for up to 2 hours. Might as well eat a nanaimo bar.

Cormoran Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: “Pender Island is also home to Canada's first olive grove, called Waterlea Farm.[14] 100 trees were originally planted by owner Andrew Butt with the goal of producing the first "Made in Canada" olive oil.[15]”

Quadra Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: “Mount Warburton Pike viewpoint, which is the tallest mountain in the Outer Gulf Islands.[13] On its peak, there is a communication tower used by a variety of radio and television services.[14]”

Cortes Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: ”In a major flight path for migrating birds, Galiano has hundreds of bird species,[18] such as bald eagles, herons and cormorants.”

I knew I was in trouble when the ferry worker said “Oh no I’ve never been to Galiano”. It’s the most difficult to access of the Gulf Islands because it has sparse ferry service and the longest trip.

There’s really not a whole lot to do there, just a long out-and-back road and lots of punchy hills. Most of the view is obstructed by forests and cottages, as is tradition.

Avoid, mainly because this will be your full day…

Not the largest island but you can make it a decent day if you loop around different roads. This island has lots to see and do for being so small since it was historically a hub for travel and commerce between Vancouver and the Gulf Islands.
Drop by the Japanese Memorial Garden in memory of the displaced Japanese people who were relocated elsewhere in Canada during WW2. Don’t hear about THAT stolen land very much…

Savary Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: ”Miners Bay is also the site of the Springwater Lodge which was built in 1892 and remains the oldest continuously operated hotel in British Columbia.[2]”

Texada Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: ”Thetis Island also operates one of the few one-room schoolhouses left in Canada.”
How very retro!
Thetis is located higher up island off the town of Chemainus. One ferry services both this island and the nearby Penelakut Island which you aren’t supposed to get onto unless you are part of the tribe who owns/runs it.

There’s a mix of gravel/paved roads here and some pretty steep climbing. I had a mechanical so I didn’t get to visit most of the island so maybe I’ll go back some day. You definitely can make a nice trip out of it if you loop around roads or do out-and-backs and there’s some shops and cafes to refuel at.

Beaver Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: ”It is known as the Isle of the Arts due to its high percentage of working artists, and its many cultural events include annual festivals related to art, poetry, gardens, music, boating and fishing.”
Located right off Nanaimo, it’s easy to access by a 20 minute ferry that runs all day long. You can stretch it to an 80km day if you do all the roads and there’s lots to see and do if you want to take your time. Good island!

Gambier Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: ”The original U.S. Mint building in San Francisco was to have 8 columns from the Newcastle Island quarry but 2 sank in a shipwreck off Mayne Island.”

The ferry leaves every hour from the north side of Nanaimo. The whole island is mostly covered in forest and while there’s a few gravel trails suitable for cycling it’s mainly a hike with lots of big roots and rocks. Would not bike here.

It’s nice for a pleasant day trip or an overnight camp if you lived near Nanaimo. Not exactly worth a detour otherwise.

Just a tiny ferry operated exclusively by Native American dudes (Copy)

The view around the entire island is basically this (Copy)

There's some more precarious "secret" trails along the cliffs if you're feeling it (Copy)

Cruise ships docked in Nanaimo (Copy)

You can camp overnight and rent kayaks from the harbor. (Copy)

Ferry back was packed with dogs. Why is everyone obsessed with dogs here? (Copy)

Keats Island

Ferry Access
The island community is an enclave of Canadian counter-culture. Lasqueti Island is one of the least developed of the major Gulf Islands. Its roads are mostly unpaved, and it is the only one of the larger Gulf Islands that is not currently connected to BC Hydro's electrical power grid.”

There’s a ferry twice a day leaving from French Creek, 2 hours from Victoria so you’ll be stuck here the entire day with only one ferry option back. All the roads are gravel or rough pavement and it’s pretty punchy, as always. Not much to do or see as forests obscure most of the view.

I’m not entirely sure this island is worth the entire day commitment but I had a good time.

Small privately operated ferry, the Stormchaser VII (Copy)

Notice that greets visitors. GOOD. I like this island already (Copy)

Wood carving on someone's house (Copy)

Scottie bay in the north. Interestingly textured pebble beach (Copy)

Common merganser (Copy)

Harlequin ducks. Moderately rare duck found in the northern seas (Copy)

This island has a vast network of unmaintained gravel/mountain bike trails as well (Copy)

Some of these roadside "honor system" baked good stands. Love the high trust society life. (Copy)

I needed these that day. Now was the blueberry bar entirely cooked? Possibly not. Possibly not. Was it good? Yes. (Copy)

As you make your way east you start to come across the road sheep (Copy)

There's a ton of them across a few pastures, it's pretty cool to see! (Copy)

All the way to the east in Squitty bay, up the dirt climb to this pretty damn off-grid looking setup (Copy)

Few boats in Squitty bay. Mostly just peace and quiet on this Island (Copy)

No thanks. There's a conveniance store/cafe near the harbor so you can wait for the ferry though. (Copy)

Bowen Island

Ferry Access
Fun Fact: ”A number of potters, weavers and painters have made Denman Island their home for decades.[10]”

I didn’t visit much since I blasted through to make the Hornby Island connector ferry. You have to go through Denman to get to Hornby so doing both in a day requires sacrifices. They’re linked via a cable ferry which is an interesting system that drags the boat along a huge steel cable instead of using a conventional motor.

This island has a good mix of sandy gravel roads and paved with a little town where you can relax and recharge. Being 200km away from Victoria it starts to stretch what is reasonable to do for a day trip.

View of Strathcona from Denman, behind the cable ferry. It's gorgeous up here (Copy)

Not even going to ask (Copy)

Again with the purple martins at the ferry terminal. Mosquito control? (Copy)

At this latitude up island is when you start to see the serious mountains and peaks that Vancouver Island has to offer (Copy)

BC has so many huge flowering bushes thanks to its mild climate. This was in May! (Copy)

Sea Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: ”The name Sea Island has been credited to Colonel Moody, who surveyed the geography of the Lower Mainland and noticed that at high tide, the island was partially hidden by the sea.[3]”

Isn’t that how all Islands work?

This island is just a flat loop around the International Airport ending at the Sea Island Conservation area where you can take a stroll along wetlands and observe wildlife.

There's a bike path along the sea

Looking back at the mountains in North Vancouver

The best picture of a Cooper's Hawk I'll ever take

Mitchell Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: ”The island is host to a number of auto wreckers.”

There’s nothing to see as it’s located right in the middle of the river with Vancouver to the north and Richmond to the south. It only serves as a connector and it’s a big industrial park.

Winner of the coveted of “worst island” trophy.

Annacis Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: ”On August 7, 2017, a fire broke out in a warehouse on Annacis Island.[8]”

Another industrial park island that acts mostly as a connector between the north and south. Hard pass.

Up close with a couple of pileated woodpeckers

A cool cafe in Vancouver

Amusement park that is off limits near the chinese Casino

They're close, run

Neat rotating rail bridge on the fraser. Interesting way to let boats through

Foot of the huge highway bridge connecting Annacis to mainland

Tilbury Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: This island doesn’t even have a wiki it’s so small.

You really have to look hard to find this one, only the name would clue you in as it’s only separated by a little creek. It’s mostly a quiet residential area for people with boats. People cooler than us :,(

I think this creek is about all that separates this from the mainland

People use this place mainly as a little harbor for their recreational boats

Deas Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: “It is a habitat for many kinds of birds, and a popular bird-watching destination”.

Just a small regional park with some historical buildings and a few short hiking trails along the fraser, with some observation platforms for bird-watching.

Westham Island

Bridge Access
Fun Fact: “The island was named by Harry Trim who came from Westham, Sussex.”.

The main draw is a waterfowl conservation area at the tip of the island. You have to pay to get in and there’s some wooden paths you can walk on along artificial ponds and marshes that migrating birds stop at in the spring/fall.

100 year old rotating bridge to the island

Making me feel like I'm in the USA

Most of the island is farmland and ranches

During high season this is what is promised at the bird sanctuary...

vs the reality of when I was there

Consolation humminbird

That’s it for all the islands! This sure ended on an anti-climactic note with all the worst ones on the Canada side. Sorry.
Next up is a showcase of all the attractions along this huge route. There are a lot. Some would say too many for any sane person to ever be interested in. Some would say.